The Hoot Guide to changing a wheel

According to Goodyear, 80 percent of motorists have suffered a punctured tyre at one time or another, yet 1 in 4 don't know how to change one.

The thought of a blow-out or flat developing whilst you're out driving - particularly at night, in bad weather or in fast moving traffic - is pretty scary for even the most confident drivers, but for the 1 in 4 who don't know how to fix the problem it must be a nightmare.

Fortunately though, this needn't be the case. With the right equipment and know-how, changing a wheel is a fast, relatively easy job (poor weather or visibility aside) and every driver should really know how to do it.

To that end, the cheap car insurance team here at Hoot Car Insurance Services have put together the following guide, which explains when and where you can safely change a wheel, what tools you'll need and what procedure you should follow.

When and where to attempt a wheel change
There are some circumstances in which not being able to change a wheel is mildly embarrassing - and there are others in which attempting to do so would be extremely dangerous. In such cases, it's better and safer for you to contact your breakdown service (or even the emergency services) and wait for assistance.

The first thing to be aware of is local traffic. Just as with any other breakdown, stopping close to passing traffic - particularly the fast-moving kind found on motorways and dual carriageways - puts you at immediate danger if you start working on the car.

In such situations, it's probably better to keep going for a few minutes with a flat tyre if it means you can get to the relative safety of minor roads, or better yet, get off the road altogether.

Another pre-requisite for a successful wheel change is a reasonably flat surface to park on. Any incline or camber to speak of could make your 1.5 tonne car dangerously unbalanced when it's jacked-up - most likely leading to those 1.5 tonnes suddenly dropping onto some part of your delicate anatomy.

Similarly, if you have the choice, a hard surface such as tarmac or concrete is preferable to a soft one such as grass or gravel - but problems associated with the latter can be overcome if you pack the right kit.

The last factor to consider before getting out your socket spanner is the weather. British weather is rarely inclement enough to make changing a wheel impossible, but it will exacerbate any problems you're already having. In other words: if you drop a wheel nut whilst parked in a snowdrift or it's raining so hard you can't see, think about calling for assistance.

What equipment you'll need
First and foremost, you'll need a spare wheel in roadworthy condition. This means it must be correctly inflated, free from bulges or cracks in the tyre wall and meet UK regulations for tread depth. For more info on tyre condition, see the Hoot Guide to looking after your tyres.

Besides the wheel, much of the rest of the equipment you'll need probably came with your car: a socket spanner (and locking bolt if you have locking wheel nuts), a jack and jack handle, and a hazard warning triangle. Most are located in the car boot, on top of or alongside the spare wheel.

If you're missing any one of these essentials, however, get down to Halfords for an affordable replacement. Even a whole new jack should cost less than £30.

Besides the essentials, there's a few extra items you'll have to pack yourself - but it's well worth the effort. These are a flat-head screwdriver, a pair of gloves, a can of spray oil such as WD-40 or 3-IN-ONE, a torch, and a piece of board or carpet about 2 foot sq.

How to do it
Once you've found a safe place to park (see above) put the car in first gear and the handbrake on, before getting out to unpack your equipment. Don any safety clothing you might be carrying (such as a reflective vest or jacket), put your gloves on and set up your hazard warning triangle before starting work on the actual wheel.

First, remove the hubcap from the wheel you're about to change, using the screwdriver. Keep it handy, as it makes a great dish to put your wheel nuts in and stops them from rolling away.

Loosen - but don't remove - the wheel nuts, using the socket spanner. If they're particularly stiff, apply a little of the spray oil and try standing on the spanner handle for extra leverage. If your car has locking nuts (a common theft-prevention method) use the locking bolt adapter so you can connect your spanner.

Next, position your jack under the car's jacking point, which should be illustrated in your user manual. It's crucial to get this right, otherwise you could end up tearing a hole in the undercarriage with your jack head. If you're parked on soft ground, place the piece of board or carpet under the jack - this will spread the weight and stop it sinking.

Raise the jack by hand until it makes good contact with the jacking point. Then fit the jack handle and crank it until the affected wheel is lifted clear off the ground. Bear in mind that the tyre you're about to fit is fully inflated, so leave enough room to accommodate this.

Now fully remove the wheel nuts, and then the wheel itself. Lie it flat underneath the car, so that the vehicle will have something other than your hands to fall on just in case the jack fails.

Slide on your new wheel, lining it up with the bolts on the wheel hub, and then re-fit and screw in the wheel bolts. Don't tighten the bolts yet, as this is far easier done once the jack is removed.

Lower the car back onto four wheels with the jack and tighten the wheel nuts using the spanner. Tighten opposite pairs of nuts in order rather than going around in a circle (i.e. "North, South, East, West," rather than "North, East, South, West") as this ensures a tight and even fit to the wheel hub.

Lastly, put the hubcap back on and put everything else away. And now that the car is roadworthy again, get the flat tyre replaced as soon as possible, either at a garage or specialist tyre and exhaust shop.

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